When my British mother slipped on an apron, four active, hungry children knew food was on the way. And her shout to don our hand-stitched “pinnies,” was as clear a call to dinner as any bell. As I write this, I realize something obvious but never questioned. My brother wasn’t required to wear a pinafore to protect his clothes. And so wrapped in this small anecdote is the conundrum of the apron. Is it a symbol of feminine oppression as sometimes argued, a practical garment, or a colorful and often personalized accessory? All three perhaps.
Iris Buckley, my sleuth in the Apron Shop Series, sells vintage aprons and household linens at Ruffles & Bows, her shop in Blueberry Cove, Maine. A RISD graduate and former fabric designer, she’s taking advantage of a rising interest in aprons from the glamorous to the strictly functional. Iris also loves mid-century fashion and designs the ‘50s-flavored dresses she wears.
As a premise for a cozy mystery series, aprons offer numerous story possibilities. In addition to being beautiful garments, they are rich in history and cultural associations, i.e. plot ideas. Iris searches out antique aprons in all kinds of intriguing places, managing to stumble into murder and mayhem along the way. Quite often secrets of the past come to light.
Naturally Iris has favorites among the aprons she sells. I’ve put together five, iconic examples of Americana.
1) Hostess Half-Apron – In the tradition of June Cleaver and Lucille Ball, the frothy, frilly hostess half-apron is pure adornment. After toiling in the kitchen, the hostess of yore would swap a work apron for one of these confections before greeting guests. Often made of taffeta or organdy with lots of novelty trim, they came in colors and themes to suit every occasion. They sometimes had scalloped or handkerchief-point hems, several tiers, or sheer overlays.
Iris considers the hostess half-apron to be a gateway garment, since few can resist its decorative charm. If so inclined, a simple one can be whipped up in an afternoon from six vintage handkerchiefs and a length of satin blanket binding.
2) Work Apron – Originating in times when laundry was a chore done by hand, the work apron has one purpose—to protect clothing. But despite its simplicity of form and function, they are often attractive and collectible. As seen on period shows like Downton Abbey, apron styles changed with the decades, echoing the clothing they were made to cover. Until the 1920s, aprons were full and long, to cover the dresses underneath. Many had bibs, often trimmed with lace or a ruffle. Common fabrics included cotton, linen, and muslin.
The Jazz Age’s shorter hems and dropped waists soon resulted in aprons that followed suit. In the 1950s, full skirts and defined waists returned, even in bibbed aprons. Plain white gave way to colorful fabrics and embellishments that included pompoms, braid, and appliqué. Domestic chores might be an endless grind but at least one can brighten them up with a pretty apron.
3) Feed and Flour Sack Aprons – Although a type of work apron, Iris believes flour and feed sack aprons are worthy of a special mention. In the 1800s, goods like sugar, flour, and animal feed were often sold in cotton bags. Women soon realized that the fabric could be recycled into clothing, household linens, and yes, aprons. Manufacturers caught on and began printing the sackcloth in attractive prints. Vintage sack aprons are cherished today as charming examples of thrift and ingenuity.
4) Classic Pinafore – Made famous by Alice in Wonderland, the classic pinafore is crisp white cotton trimmed with shoulder ruffles and a big sash. The name comes from the earliest version which was fabric pinned to the front (afore) of a garment. Nowadays the pinafore is a full garment worn by children over a blouse or t-shirt or alone as a sundress. Adults wear them too, and Iris uses white pinafore aprons as Ruffles & Bows staff uniforms.
5) Men’s Apron – Despite the usual focus on women’s aprons, men wear them and always have, mainly while engaged in a trade. Over time, colors and fabrics used became standardized. For example, stonemasons wore white aprons against dust while cobblers chose black so as not to show polish stains. Leather protected blacksmiths from burns. Aprons are still worn today by chefs, welders, and commercial fishermen. But the iconic apron many men favor is used for grilling. Every Memorial Day across the country, grills are uncovered and BBQ aprons pulled off a hook. Hamburger and hot dog season has begun.
As Iris discovers in the Apron Shop Series, new generations are circling back to the humble yet iconic apron and making it theirs.
Elizabeth Penney is the author of more than two dozen cozy mysteries, among other novels. She is a member of the Women’s Fiction Writers Association and the owner of 2 Penney Productions. A former consultant and nonprofit executive, Elizabeth grew up in Maine and now lives in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, where she also operates a small farm. Hems and Homicide is the first in the Apron Shop series. Visit www.elizabethpenneyauthor.com to learn more.
